Todos Santos and the Hotel California

On a Dark Desert Highway... is it what inspired the Eagles to write the song?

(Click on photos in this article to enlarge)

Well, we weren't on a dark desert highway the morning we made the one hour drive from La Paz to Todos Santos. I would have felt the cool wind in my hair better if I'd had a rag top like Glenn Fry and Don Henley of the Eagles had as they drove into Todos Santos and were allegedly inspired to write the hit song 'Hotel California'. The breeze from the Pacific Ocean less than 2 miles away helps keep the area appreciably cooler even into the late summer months.
 

About half way down Benito Juarez Street we were taken in by a shaded corridor of brightly colored archways and the sounds of laughter and sound of plates clattering emanated from the open doors and windows. We poked our heads inside the door to follow the delicious aromas and were immediately drawn in by the decor.

I don't know if there is a category you can define the theme of the decor rather than Baja Modern. Brightly colored bent glass lamps hung from exposed beams and illuminated classic Mexican hewn tables adorned with modern metal sculptures and vases of exotic flowers. The great care and attention built into the adornments was very obvious. Definitely, not your run of the mill Baja hotel. 

We ventured down a few steps into the restaurant to follow the sounds of a grill sizzling and the call of the garlic and steak in the air.
 

As to the warm smell of colitas rising up through the air thing, you can get six months in jail just for having that stuff in your car! (but we'll that unmasked later in the story...) 

Up ahead in the distance is Todos Santos, a growing community located just about 1/2 way between Cabo San Lucas and La Paz on Mexico Hwy 19 about one hour from each. Todos Santos is picturesque, clean little town. Quaint little bed & breakfasts can be found throughout town. Real estate prices are rising as North Americans seize on this enclave with it's roots in sugar, surfing and some hippies with a potter's wheel. Todos Santos has developed a character all it's own.

Todos Santos has a unique energy, just a good feeling that permeates you, like Sonoma or Taos. A laid back, at ease feeling. Maybe it's because the town is located on the Tropic of Cancer, where the sun is directly overhead on June 21st. Maybe it's just that refreshing Pacific breeze after the drive from La Paz.

Eating is something I make time to do in Todos Santos. There are so many excellent dining experiences I hesitate to mention some without slighting others. I have enjoyed relaxed patio dining and Reggae music at Santana's, great food and an excellent Margarita at Tequila Sunrise. So this trip I thought I let my guests choose.
 

Half a dozen rough hewn tables were scattered about the foyer under vaulted ceilings with a view of the open kitchen gave the room a very open and inviting feeling. We took the bait and had lunch.

With the open kitchen and tray loads of well styled cuisine passing by at regular intervals it was difficult to make a choice from the varied menu of Nuevo Mexicana offerings. However, with the guidance of attentive and English speaking wait staff I chose the lamb burger, as I had heard in La Paz that it was worth the drive.

While waiting for lunch it's easy to amuse yourself admiring all the attention to detail and lose yourself in that comfortable feeling the interior decoration provides. I wandered out in the courtyard, drawn by the sounds of Mexican folk music being played by an older local couple entertaining the lunch crowd. I assure you that I had busted a move and done some dance to remember or some dance to forget, they probably would have hauled me away.

Todos Santos centro is two main streets that form a box. The truck route L's to the east and takes you past the Post Office, bus station and park. Tiendas and mini-markets along the roadside provide the working man's air of a prosperous Baja village. See, in addition to Todos' tourist industry, is the real backbone of this town's economy is agriculture.

Just outside of town are large produce warehouses, freighting stations and one of the largest modern greenhouse complexes in all of Mexico. Local products include avocado, papaya & mango orchards, fishing & ranching. Just south of Todos Santos is Pescadero, which now, in the early summer, is just brimming with chillis and the 18 wheelers driving them north. All of this industry provides Mexicans living in the area a far better standard of living than much of Baja.

Where the main street turns south to head out of town I saw a shimmering light. OK, it wasn't shimmering but it is the only traffic light in town and urban legend tells me it was donated by the City of Santa Monica. I also understand in years gone by it was a favorite revenue source for the local policia.

We wandered down Benito Juarez Street, just one block west of the 'main drag'. Larger brick buildings, a town square, a church and bright and inviting cafes and bars are what give Todos it's unique look and feel.
 

On my wander I had the good fortune to meet one of the owners, Debbie Stewart. Debbie and her husband John had left the business world up north to move to Cabo in the late 90's to escape the snow and cold. They began renovation of the hotel in September of 2002 and opened the Hotel California Bar and La Coronela Restaurante on December 20, 2002. I was impressed when Debbie told me her husband John was responsible for every aspect of the Hotel's decor. With the completion of this phase of remodeling the hotel now offers 11 rooms, including a 2 storey penthouse with rooftop garden terrace and ocean & mountain views.

I had heard through the grapevine last year that one of the best New Year's Eve Parties in Baja Sur was at the Hotel California. This was confirmed by our hostess. "It IS the place to be for New Year's.  We have various things going on here like art shows, book signings, music and it is best to give us a call and check." said Debbie. We had to end our conversations she had to return to her hotelier duties at the front desk with Monserrath, her assistant and I to my steaming lamb burger waiting in the dining room.

Page 2>>