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Freediving in Baja - Everyone wants to be free!


Free diving is like scuba diving, only without the air.

Free diving in the Sea of Cortez(Click on images in this article to expand)

Can you imagine what it would be like to actually swim with sharks, blend in with shoals of fish,  or come with feet of an inquisitive 800 pound marlin? Imagining is often the closest we get! The problem with SCUBA is that we’re just too clumsy, burdened with heavy equipment and noisy! Free-diving, using no more than mask and fins might be the answer. “All you have to be is comfortable in the water and in good health, especially your ears. Given that, anybody can free-dive". What anybody? Even me, a dedicated scuba-diver? There was only one way to find out. I would learn how to free-dive. 

Now, being taught to Free-dive by some Internationally recognised top instructors is enticing enough, but doing so in desolate, quite camp in the desert, feet from the marvels of the Sea of Cortez, now we have something irresistible! This magnificent recipe was provided by Aharon Solomons and his wife MT (Short
 


Very impressive, atmospheric, and very hot.  As we rumbled along the road the scenery grew more rugged and dramatic by the mile.  The journey to camp really is a fantastic way to start your time there.  With the sea of Cortez to the right and the stony scrub covered hillsides to the left, there was only two ways, forward or backwards, giving a growing feeling of a slightly imposing isolation which, adds to the whole excitement and anticipation of seeing what was round the next headland as we left behind all signs of civilisation.

The site of the camp, El Coyote, is a stones throw from the sea and nicely sheltered all round by scrub, with the houses of the Cooltan Tan-Through Shirts Clammers and their families just a little further inland.  With the shade from the sun and the front of the camp open to the cool Coromuel breeze off the sea it made for a very comfortable spot.  

The scene out of the back of the campsite was to me one of an old Spaghetti Western, with the impressive Cardon Cacti casting long shadows in the evening sun.  The sun sets over the hills behind the camp, creating some of the nicest colours I've had the pleasure to see, stretching left and right until meeting with the sea again somewhere on the distant horizon.  

 


Book Flights & Purchase Tickets on Travelocity.comfor Maria-Teresa, who recently decided to make Baja their home, and their base training ground. Both were qualified as instructors by world free-diving record-holders Umberto Pelizzari and Francisco "Pipin" Ferreras. Both Aharon and MT are capable of a constant- weight free-dive to more than 58 meters. Having various proven competitive training successes and currently responsible for selecting and training the next Mexican Free diving team, I know I am in capable hands.  

Now, in this case, getting to your training ground, is an experience worth the trip in itself. After having been welcomed at the airport by Aharon & MT themselves, and a quick bite to eat, we travel out of La Paz, with both the traffic and built up areas dwindled quickly, leaving a movie like scene of desert scrub with a shimmering tarmac road stretching off into the distance, with a horizon of rising orange and green tinted hills.


The remainder of the evening was spent by the fire chatting and discussing the days ahead, until my eyes still heavy with travel refused to stay open any longer, forcing me to retire to my tent.

 

As with any scuba course, there is theory to cover. Aharon begins with the 20 safety rules, which include: never free-dive alone, never free-dive after scuba, and know your limits. The lectures continue with physics, physiology and technique. Aharon and MT teach free-diving the Umbert Pelizzari way. Following the clear manual that I am provided, I quickly gather that this is a mere guideline, and the true teaching stems from my instructors vast personal experiences.

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